This brooch by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin is an interesting example of twentieth-century international jewellery, in which decorative taste, sculptural construction, and rich colour combine in an object of remarkable visual presence. The collaboration between the American firm Trabert & Hoeffer and the historic French jeweller Mauboussin produced creations distinguished by an elegant and theatrical design language. Often it’s associated with the sophisticated jewellery styles of the 1930s and 1940s.
In this piece, the 14 kt yellow gold structure develops through broad scrolls and curved metallic ribbons, giving the brooch a dynamic and three-dimensional character. However, its most distinctive feature is the rich composition of coloured gemstones: sapphires, citrines, amethysts, rubies, and brilliant-cut diamonds. This choice of material create a vibrant ensemble, carefully arranged according to a balanced design.
Furthermore, the placement of the gemstones at the centre of the composition enhances the sense of movement, almost like a burst of light held within the golden framework. The brilliant-cut diamonds, introduced as sparkling points of light, complete the dialogue between colour and material, highlighting the polished surfaces of the gold.
At the same time, the plaque engraved with the word “Reflection” and the “Trabert & Hoeffer – Mauboussin” mark on the clasp help define the identity of the jewel and reinforce its collector appeal. Overall, this brooch stands as a creation of considerable character, combining fine craftsmanship, chromatic richness, and a highly theatrical aesthetic.
Description: Embellished with sapphires, citrines, amethysts, rubies, and brilliant-cut diamonds, bearing on the reverse the “Trabert & Hoeffer – Mauboussin” mark on the clasp. There’s also a plaque engraved with the inscription “Reflection”, an additional partially legible hallmark. Total weight 86.4 g, length 9.7 cm.
Hammer Price: € 7.500,00
